Full moon on Kilimanjaro

Port Moresby to Brisbane to Singapore to Dubai to Nairobi to Kilimanjaro airport = 41.75 hours, including layovers.

Africa proper, opposed to Egypt who considers themselves neither Africa or Mid-East, has always been high on the list of vacations for me. Kudos to my travel partner Mike for queueing this trip up for us and being flexible to accommodate my schedule.

On the layover in Brisbane I actually stored my bags and left the airport to buy hiking boots (hah, I know!) and grab a bite to eat with a mate in the city. Back on the plane around midnight... On the layover in Dubai I bought a Canon Eos 60D DLSR camera for the trip. I'd heard rumors that Dubai duty free was good deal, so I did no price research beforehand. It's not a good deal. Duty free's all over the world are not good deals. They now all pocket the money saved on duty for themselves based on the common belief that it's a good deal. How is saving $1 on 1L bottle of booze and then having to cart it around for 8 hours a good deal. Thumbs down.

On the layover in Nairobi I charged the camera battery.

We chose to book a tour in advance for both the Kilimanjaro climb and the safari bit afterwards... Neither Mike nor I had the time to put in the research beforehand, plus we didn't want to waste any days booking crap once we got there as we only had 18 days once you take out the travel. So that meant for all our airports rides and transfers there was someone there with a piece of paper with our names on it, which was nice if not adventurous.

The Springlands Hotel where we were supposed to stay had no power when I landed so instead I was taken to hotel in central Moshi, which actually worked out better for me because I could explore town for a day before Mike got there (instead of at the Springlands which is a bit out of town and all I would have done is laid by the pool). We did do enough chilling poolside once Mike arrived anyways, no worries.

Wandering around town I partook in the local java (excellent), breakfast joints, "art" galleries (re: tourist stuff for sale), dodging traffic, attracting stares, and avoiding being ripped off ("no thanks, already have 10 of those, cheers!).

Now on to Kilimanjaro. Kilimanjaro is the world's tallest free standing mountain (not part of a range) and Africa's highest peak. Africa actually has quite a few mountains and big hills as opposed to the rolling plains of Africa I was expecting. Maybe that's just Tanzania though, not sure about the rest. There are several routes up the mountain... apparently we took the second hardest called the Machame/Mwaka route, or the Whiskey route. The easiest route is dubbed "Coca-Cola", while the hardest is "Double-Whiskey".

Day 1:
Started off at the Machame Gate, at 1800m above sea level. The first day we walked 12km and climbed 1300m to end up at the Machame encampment at 3100m asl over the course of about 5 hours. We started out in plantation vegetation, through rain forest, and ending in the mist at the start of the moorland. Arriving at camp at just after 4pm we fell in to a routine that was common for the rest of the climb (except summit day). While we took 5 hours to make it up the porters made it in 3 or 4 giving them time to set-up camp and start preparing dinner. Whenever we arrived in camp they'd have hot water for washing your face and the dinner tent set up with ample instant coffee, tea, and popcorn. Dinner around 6'ish which was also typically soup, bread, stew, rice, fruit/dessert, and more tea/coffee.

The only downside to the day was as I was getting used to my day pack and camera I dropped the camera (luckily still in its case) twice. One of those times I've smashed the display on the back of the camera. While the camera still appeared to be working I couldn't access any of the advanced functions or review any photos. No big deal as long as it was still actually taking photos.

Swahili learned: Poa kichizi kama ndizi = Cool, crazy like a banana.

Day 2:
An easy day climbing wise. Only 7 km and a 740m vertical to end up at Shira encampment at 3840m asl. It took us 4.5 days to get to the summit and only 1.5 days down. The reason they take you the "long way" up is to get acclimatized to the altitude to avoid altitude sickness. I did zero research into this beforehand, but luckily Mike did and brought us drugs to cheat. Some people train for months to climb Kili, chose not to use Diamox for altitude sickness, and then they get sick 800m from the top and are forced down all the way. We didn't risk it and don't feel guilty, and as a result had no issues the whole way up.

The cooks nearly killed Mike by cooking fish for me and chicken for him. But he's deathly allergic (evolution I told him) so that was not worth the risk of eating in case they cooked the chicken in the same pan as the fish. Veggie night for him.

We were joined afterwards by Michelle and George, whom we met earlier that day. They both work in Tanzania doing morally satisfying things like teaching kids and working with orphans. My hiatus from oil/gas construction seems empty after meeting people like this... Good on 'em I say. They did have a friendly competition amongst themselves on who was more local in Moshi. The jury is still out.

Swahili: Pole pole = Slowly slowly. The guides and porters are always saying this. I'm sure if we walked at full speed we'd get this thing done in 3 days, and a 3 day trip doesn't earn as much tip for them as a 6 day!

Day 3:
A long day today (full 8 hours) travelling 13km, going up 750m to the Lava Tower (looks like it sounds) and then down 690m to Barranco camp ending up at 3900m. The downhill bit was hard on the knees. We didn't know it at the time but this was a sore lesson to be learned for the last 1.5 days when we'd have to go all the way down.

Swahili: Mambo? = How are you? Reply: Poa = Cool.

Day 4:
Another 13km day from Barranco camp to Barafu camp. 700m vertical ending at 4650m. Well and truly into alpine desert now which means intense radiation, high evaporation, huge daily temperature fluctuations with nights well below 0 and daytime over 35C. Not a lot of plants anymore as there's less soil, mostly flowers and moss. Lots of lava flows, valleys, and lava caves to look at... We arrive at camp just before 4, have a wash, tea, rest, quick dinner, and then to bed just after 6pm to get rest. We need to get up at 11pm in order to start climbing at midnight for the final push to the summit.

Swahili: Twende = Let's go!

Day 5:
Up and on the trail at 12:12am! Today is the final push up 1300m of vertical to the summit, which is 5895m above sea level.

To be expected, spectacular! Though we weren't first to leave camp at midnight we were the first ones to the top that morning, arriving just before sunrise at 5:30am. There was a full moon to guide us the whole way, which was nice since I didn't have a flashlight! Some other people had way more gear with them. Not saying it wouldn't have come in handy, but I coped. After taking a few pics at the summit with the sign we made our way down a little ways to wait for the sunrise. The scenes revealed themselves under the moonlight and then grew to awesome with the rising sun. The glaciers were especially captivating under the growing light, changing shades and colour with every minute. The views to the other peak of Kilimanjaro were also clarified under the new sun, presenting many many photo ops. You can imagine how much I was hoping at this point that my camera was actually taking pictures after being dropped!!

After many pictures we started our decent. As we passed people who were filing up the trail on our way down we offered words of encouragement as some of the groups looks truly beaten. Probably looked how we looked at that point coming up... It was truly gruelling and exhausting, only the view from the top gives you energy to make your way down.

And then the hell starts with the 2.5 hour hike down to Barafu camp. Now it's 8am. The boys prepared a snack, and then luckily we had a couple hours to nap before continuing down the hill at 10am'ish.

All in all it was a 22km walk that day, with 1300m up and another -2795m down to Mweka camp.

Swahili: Amani ne penda = Peace and love

Day 6:
1300m more to descend to the original 1800m asl, and a final 10km hike down. The most painful 10km of my life. The ol' right knee did not likey. But we managed... It was a fairly low key day given the accomplishment the previous day. We were back at the hotel by 4pm or so in order to sort out our tips for the guides, cook, and porters. Clearly their favourite part of the trip, especially with generous Canadians doing the tipping versus tip-ignorant Aussies or Germans. I said it, tip-ignorant! Aussies don't get that not every country has a $15/hour plus a mandatory 9% retirement contribution by their employers. But enough about that, I've learned there's no convincing them otherwise! haha. That out of the way we enjoyed a couple beers before heading to the room to shower, the first time in 6 days.

That evening we met Michelle, George, and Christine at a restaurant/bar in Moshi. Being a Monday the town was a little slow but we had fun regardless! When the bar closed we headed back to Michelle's house for some red wine grog, and then back to bed for a proper rest.

And that was Kilimanjaro. Again the pics are here. Those are 35 out of 255, and the 255 is after I deleted the repeats and bad ones. Over the whole trip I took 1200 photos with the new camera, which thankfully WAS and IS still working despite having a smashed display.

Swahili: Ushindi = Success!

Oh, here's one pic that's not on FB. It's my full moon pic at the summit.

Crazy Town

Today a co-worker found 2 of the biggest butterflies I've ever seen. The biggest was in West New Britain when I was climbing up that volcano a few months ago, but that was from a distance and it was on a tree. These ones were up close. Saucer sized.

Did you know the biggest butterfly in the world is found in Papua New Guinea? The Queen Alexandra's Birdwing. Crazy, 30 cm wingspan!

I googled Crazy Town's Butterfly lyrics searching for a witty title for this post. Early 2000's alt-metal/rap song lyrics are stupid. Sample size small but representative.

Do you know why oil & gas prices are so high? Corporate and individual waste. Every ridiculous expense an employee of an oil and gas operating company is built into the price the world pays. I.e. Roaming charges for US based expats who refuse get a blackberry from the country of their assignment, for 2 years, while continuing to surf the web and check their FB in their new country on their phone. My North American brethren will agree that the $4/min and $100/mb roaming addes up. Roll this into world wide oil price collusion..... doh... never mind, I've been out of school too long to be coherent anymore, instead I rant sporadically. hah!

This post is better than nothing, but definite room for improvement. I'm rusty alright?

Ok, I got something... check this pic out. It's of a co-worker's kids at the grocery store here on PNG independence day, where the some of the employees dressed in their traditional dress.

Resurrection

Ok, not a resurrection, at least not to its formal glory. I am under no delusion that I'll post as often as I should or that would warrant daily/weekly/monthly check-ins to this blog.

But that said, I can do better than 1 every 7 months.

As most readers would know I've done a bit more travelling recently but haven't posted anything
on this blog space due to ease and accessibility of Facebook.

Before getting to any bits about Tanzania, the most recent excursion, the least I can do is post links to the pictures, which if you're on FB have probably already viewed. oh well, FB is killing blogs like this, what can I say? To that end I'm going to try and change the focus from vacation summary blog and occasional interesting happening blog to something else. I don't know what that is yet though, so don't get your hopes up.

This post is all over the place and filled with commas.

Here are the picture links, will try to expand further eventually:
Kilimanjaro Pics
Safari Day 1
Safari Day 2
Safari Day 3
Safari Day 4
Zanzibar

Witu Diving Parts 3 & 4

Here is Part 3 and Part 4...

Witu diving part 2

More pics on Facebook... sorry, it's just so much easier to load pics there than Blogger.

Blogger take note! Improve picture interface!

Next stop, Witu Island

After Kimbe Bay we steamed to Witu Island. It's the top 350 degrees of the top of a volcano... the land has a couple villages on both the outside and inside of the crater.

Here's the link to the pics.

PNG Holiday

Hi all,

Here's the link to the first set of pics from the early days of my last holiday. For those who missed it I took a couple weeks off in Papua New Guinea to do some scuba diving and relaxing. This first set is of the flight to West New Britain (island north of the PNG mainland) and settling in to the Walindi Plantation Resort for a night before getting on the Star Dancer, a Peter Hughes live aboard, for 10 days.

More to follow...

experience #2

Well, well... They don't call it the land of the unexpected for nothing.

Me and two friends from work went to dinner last night at a local Italian restaurant. The place was frequented by expats and upper middle class Papua New Guineans, and we usually went there a couple times a month. All was going good, we finished dinner and were downing our last sips of below average wine and waiting for the bill when one of my friends noticed something was not right. He has worked for the UN and been a few places where he's learned a few things. After tapping me on the knee a few times I finally figured it out when I looked up to see the staff running to the kitchen and 2 or 3 guys who didn't quite belong entering the dining area. That's about when they pulled their guns and told everyone to put their wallets and mobile phones on the table. No one really screamed or panicked. A few people hit the deck, and others (myself included) basically froze up. There were 5 of them altogether inside, 1 stood watch, 2 made their way through the customers, and the other 2 I presume hit the restaurant office. There had to be more outside also as all places in Port Moresby have "security", which would have been taken care of before they came inside. It was all over in probably under 10 minutes... I lost 500 Kina ($300) in cash and they didn't want my 30 Kina company phone. They made their way out without any major incident, we called our dispatch for the security drivers to pick us up, and it was all over.

First time I've seen a gun from that angle in person, not exactly a calming effect. But everything went the way it should have... None of us had our regular wallets, expensive watches, or anything not worth losing. Best of all no one reacted poorly and there weren't any "heroes", which is a good thing when there's that many bad guys with guns.

So, needless to say that restaurant is now "no-go". Looking back maybe it should have been the whole time given it was a smaller venue outside of any big hotels and didn't exactly have cracker jack security.

Tonight I ate in.

experience

Yesterday was a an interesting day. Sadly a co-worker and new friend here in PNG passed away on 25-February of cancer. She had worked with us since September 2009 until January 2010 before taking a few weeks off due to illness. As it turns out that illness was cancer and she left us in February. As her co-workers ee were graciously invited to her funeral and around twenty of us were able to leave work early and attend. We caught a bus from the project office in downtown Port Moresby and drove nearly an hour east to her village where the service was. After twisting and turning through the hills and bouncing on the pot holed roads we turned up a dirt road that lead towards the coast. Up and over another hill and we entered the village. Amelia's village is like one of those ones I've shown pictures of with the houses on stilts at the water's edge, and while the part we spent our time was on land it was apparent how close their connection to the sea and tides were. We passed some houses that were built in the middle of mangroves up on 2 meter high stilts that when we drove by were no where near any water. But the ground was muddy due to the tides. A tall walkway in mid-air to access the house was there to show us how high the tides get. The main part of the village we visited was on regular ground though and the church where the service was held was central to the community. There have been a lot of christian missionaries in this part of the world in the last couple hundred years, likely fairly similar to other countries many more hundreds of years ago. For this reason a lot of Papua New Guineans are of a christian background and churches are common place.

When we first stepped out of the bus it was apparent the whole village was involved in the process of laying Amelia to rest. There was a tented area where the main gathering outside the church was located. It was here where her family surrounded her coffin for what was essentially the viewing portion of the funeral. But as I said, the whole village was there for it. While most likely only knew her by name or her family they were still there, and the literally hundreds of kids around made the atmosphere very communal even though it was a solemn day. The village made room for us on benches near her coffin to pay our respects and basically sit there and take in the moment before the church portion of the day went ahead. All was calm until an elderly lady started to sing. I'm sure the song was a traditional funeral song in their language as when she was only two or three words into it when the entire gathering joined her in an awe inspiring choir. The moment was not lost on us and it began to set in how much family and community mean to Papua New Guineans.

Shortly after the service moved inside with the pall bearers carrying Amelia inside the church followed by everyone else. Again the villagers' hospitality was nearly too much as they directed us to the front, even though others in attendance would surely have known her much longer. Of course being the humble Canadian and not wanting to impose on the ceremony and to sit in the back I was at first uncomfortable being ushered to the front thinking that others would deserve to be closer given their relationship with Amelia. But as we learned afterward the village and Amelia's family were truly thankful that we attended and they were showing the hospitality that they would to any visitor no matter what the occasion.

The church portion of the service progressed much as any western funeral with various friends and family taking the podium to speak in between the priest reciting scripture and conducting prayers. After listening to Amelia's friends and family talk about her life and her accomplishments I get the sense that people from this island celebrate a person's contributions to the village, to their family, and to their nation equally. While some spoke of her involvement in the church and community others spoke at length about her professional accomplishments as well. It seemed that these were viewed as much as a testament to her intelligence and contribution to companies as much as they were contributions to the village and even Papua New Guinea as a whole. As a cultural experience this has allowed me to view this island nation in a different light. While Papua New Guinea is a beautiful place and one of the most undeveloped places in the world the sense of the people and their collective desire to succeed as a nation shines through in unexpected moments.

Throughout the service in the church there were a couple hymns or songs that I think are from christian roots even though they were sung in Amelia's language. But the most moving and what I'll remember are the traditional songs where one person would begin to sing and the entire congregation would join in behind them. Maybe because it was in a native language and a completely new experience to me it made the day more special to me, I don't know. What ever the case it was a day I won't soon forget for a couple reasons. Firstly it *was* a cultural experience and something truly from Papua New Guinea. And second because Amelia was a special person who in the short time we knew her touched us all and showed us how Papua New Guineans care for each other and the visitors to their island.

Relax

So there's a tsunami warning for PNG due to the quake in Chile. So I'm on my balcony trying to catch a tan and blogging, GT's. We can't go to site because it's right at sea level... no evidence of the tsunami here yet though, but apparently it has hit Hawaii already.

Anyways, back to the rays.

And before I forget, here's a link to all my Buenos Aires Photos: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=377929&id=666980653&l=3c76960449 .

And our day at the Guacho ranch... http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=380335&id=666980653&l=0284dfeab4

BA

All good things come to an end... Unfortunately! Buenos Aires was awesome. The week here has been a ton of fun, exploring the city and taking in the sites with Ed and Kate. The GT's included a futbol game, a day at a working ranch, tango show, walking tours, shopping, wicked restaurants, and a few late night surprises at some very cool venues.

Argentina and BA have been another great experience with BA rocketing to the top of my favourite city list (narrowly ahead of Berlin). The casualness, awesome burrios, history, and attitude of the locals has made another big impression and resulted on a fantastic holiday experience. While there are definitely some elements of a 2nd world or undeveloped nation these only add to the charm of this impressive country. I'd like to return to explore the country to the south, which includes many elements familiar to Canada such as mountains, glaciers, skiing, and wildlife. All I good time though!!

I'm in the airport now getting ready for the trip back to png and work. Hope everyone is well!



-- Post From My iPhone

Smoke in your face

This was in my drafts from argentina, guess it didnt upload ...

Had to laugh. Apparently buenos aires is full of various wandering street vendors selling anything from jewelery, socks, to CDs... I was sitting enjoying a caprese salad and a one litre beer (cheers Nabber) when one of them lit a fresh smoke, took a big inhale, then made his sales pitch to a table of girls. The ensuing exhale and cloud of smoke in their faces was comical. They didn't buy anything.


-- Post From My iPhone

Before I forget

A few notes from Mexico.

- in Mexican airport bars you can your drink in a to-go cup and take it directly to the gate!! I wonder if you could get it all the way onto the plane.
- Spanish screaming kids on planes are still annoying. But I understand.
- tableside coat racks in restaurants, why not, it's so simple and usefull. Take note restauranteers.






-- Post From My iPhone

Arrived in EZE

Checked into a little B&B close to the apartment that Kate, Ed, and myself will be staying in once they arrive tomorrow. It's nice, fully old school and funky, and the bed very comfortable even if it's a full 30cm (1 foot) short.

It's 3pm here, taking a quick nap due to not much sleep in roach class on the way here.




The ride here was alright too, except I think I was taken for a ride by the taxi, but that could also be my skeptical self. The roads and all the buildings on/close to the freeway reminded me Cairo actually... Only more toll booths.



-- Post From My iPhone

More PV Pics

Follow the link for a few more pics, courtesy of my traveling companions.

Rain delay

Nothing interesting to blog about today because it's raining... no one on the beach, no one on the course, and people are staying in their rooms (including me!). Oh well, a quiet day with a book and a laptop, can't complain! Tomorrow should be better... final round of golf and then off to Argentina.

POM to BNE to LAX to PVR

No regrets, first post in awhile. I've been relying on Facebook to update the masses but have realized lately that not everyone is on FB (gasp!), and this forum allows for a bit more detail.

So in case you didn't know I'm out for my second rotation from Papua New Guinea. The first half I've met friends John and Vanessa from Canada in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. I've been here in PV for 7 nights so far... I stayed the first 6 at the Buenaventura Grand Hotel and Spa in downtown PV with those two... and yesterday I said goodbye to John and Vanessa as they had used up their week off from work. I had a great time with the two of them lounging by the pool and hanging out in downtown PV... We did a zip line thing which was a great time. I've never done that before, and when they go with you down the line and flip you upside down, essentially sending you headfirst over a giant crevasse with no hands it's unnerving at first. But eventually you want to do it more, a good rush! Other highlights of the time spent with J&V was partying on the malecon, relaxing by the pool, golfing, nice dinners, and many (too) tequila shots! I was eventually tequila'd out mid-week but fought through it for one more crazy night on their last night. Neither of them were too thrilled about being severely hungover for their plane ride home, mission accomplished!! ;)

Yesterday I moved over to Paradise Village in Nuevo Vallarta, a little further north than PV proper. The reason for this was now that I'm by myself my plan is to hit the golf course with vengeance, and one of the better courses (El Tigre) is located near this resort. My strategy today was to suffer through a timeshare presentation in order to get cheaper golf.

Timeshare sales people are not happy when you say no... bottom line I said I didn't come here thinking about a timeshare, I'm not an impulse buyer (I lied about that, I am!), and if it's such a good product you'll sell it to me later. It always sounds good though... They eventually talked themselves down to a $3500 sort of vacation club deal that was for 200 years, 6 weeks a year, pay as you go, no annual fee, 6 more less flexible weeks for friends/family, no blackouts, book online, etc etc sort of thing. Which still sounds like a decent deal. I mean, if I go somewhere and book a place it does cost way more ($150/night * 7nights = $1050), whereas this deal it'd be under $200-500 for a week depending how pick I was with times/places. Given that I do travel quite a bit it could be paid off pretty quickly... But basically it boils down to being a sort of discount online/self-service thing that costs $3500 to sign up for! So I'm not sold on it yet...

But I do get to play El Tigre three times for $108 instead of $150x3=$450, so no worries!

Here is a link to photos... They're all from my iPhone and taken with a blood alcohol measure of between 0.04 to 0.23 and therefore relatively crappy.

Tomorrow my plan is get up, jog on the beach, shower, breakfast, golf at 10:30am, then maybe the spa or a real workout... Then on Tuesday I have golf at 9am, so will have to work something else out for some more activity afterward. Wednesday I think I'll play one of the courses up in the mountains (since I have to check out anyways), then I'm on the plane at 6:30pm for the overnight trip to Buenos Aires, which is where I'm meeting Ed and Kate (friends from Brisbane) for the second half my break. Ed and Kate were in Peru for all the rain and mudslides that have been in the news, so I'm hoping everything is alright with them. They were planning a few multi-day treks through the jungle so it's not totally unusual that I haven't heard from them.

mmmm... blogging. I'll try and get back into it a little more consistently and hopefully more interesting too.